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a brief history of woven labels

10/31/2016

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​Most consumers do not realize that fabric labeling is produced by an industry and technologies that are completely separate from the companies who manufacture apparel and soft goods. In fact, a distinct supply chain for brand and care labeling and packaging supported the early textile mills in New England and evolved with the garment making centers of the Southern US and West Coast.

Woven labels on clothing date back to the 1830s, as an evolution of fine silk ribbons and logo enriched tapes for suspenders, hat bands, liners for fabric belts and cigar bands.  Using the Jacquard patterning process developed in France at the beginning of the 19th century, label weaving is quite different from typical broad cloth weaving in that the weft creates the designs as the Jacquard machine controls each warp end allowing for greater detail. The Jacquard system of binary, paper punch controls was the predecessor to the first computer paper that gave computers directions based on whether there is a hole in a certain location on the paper or not, the same “coding” used in the Jacquard weaving machine. 

State-of-the-art air jet looms now produce labels at high speeds with up to 12 colors. These multi-color labels are a relatively new development appearing in the late 1970s when broadloom weaving became available for labels based on patented technology. This revolutionary change for the industry increased production rates and flexibility dramatically thus reducing the cost of labeling and making a wider range of fabric branding styles available.

​Today’s popular damask labels are named for the type of weave that allows for bold colors and intricate detail with a high density of yarn. High-end products typically carry damask labels both for a superior look of quality and brand impact.
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    Author

    As the fourth generation in her family's US-based, label manufacturing company, Karen Bleckmann grew up in and then managed a business that introduced the broadloom label, ComfortSoftwear(tm) and sew-in solutions for RFID and EAS tags to the industry.

    Her background enables her to understand the needs of independent, start-up designers and major retail brands ​to provide apparel and soft goods brands with exceptionally personal service, an efficient supply chain and innovative labeling solutions.

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